| Barefoot mixes take on
recipes from scratch When Ina Garten declared during an
interview that her new line of Barefoot Contessa packaged mixes
were "exactly like the original recipe," we decided to
find out.
We purchased the boxed mixes for Coconut Cupcakes and Chocolate
Cupcakes with Peanut Butter Icing at A Southern Season in Chapel
Hill. Then, we bought the ingredients to make the corresponding
recipes from her new cookbook, "Barefoot Contessa at Home."
After a marathon baking session, we brought both the mix and the
scratch versions to the office for taste testing. (These testers
may not be experts, but they have eaten their share of desserts,
trust us.)
Of the 31 testers who tasted both versions of the Chocolate Cupcakes
with Peanut Butter Icing, 20 correctly identified which sample was
made from the packaged mix. All but two of these preferred the cupcakes
made from scratch. Of the 11 testers who guessed incorrectly about
the packaged mix, six preferred the cupcakes made from the mix and
four preferred the scratch cupcakes (one expressed no preference).
One tester identified the scratch cupcake as "very fluffy
and moist" with "the right amount of sweetness."
Many noted that the cupcakes from the mix tasted slightly drier
and had a tougher texture.
The coconut category was a little more complicated. The packaged
mix was for making cupcakes, while the scratch version was a layer
cake recipe, developed by Garten for the new cookbook and based
on her earlier recipe for coconut cupcakes.
Of the 24 people who tried both, 17 correctly picked the cupcake
as the one made from a mix. All but three of these preferred the
cake made from scratch. Of the seven who guessed incorrectly, all
but one preferred the cupcake made from the mix.
Most who preferred the cake said that it was moister and more flavorful.
A few even correctly identified that it contained almond as well
as vanilla flavoring.
"The cake has a more buttery taste," one tester wrote
on the comments sheet. "There's a hint of almond in that buttery
taste."
To put all this in perspective, many testers commented that all
the baked goods were delicious, and samples disappeared quickly.
The most any of the testers was willing to pay for a package mix,
however, was $8. Most said they would pay $2 to $4. The two Barefoot
Contessa cupcake mixes we bought cost $10.95 each at A Southern
Season.
Concerning those mixes, here are a few notes from the cook: While
they do save time, especially compared to the scratch recipes, these
are not your typical dump and cook mixes. Instead of just oil, water
and an egg, both called for more expensive items like unsalted butter
and heavy cream. And while most regular mixes yield two dozen cupcakes,
these mixes make only 10 to 12, although they do include the frosting
mix.
Both mixes call for creaming the butter together with part of the
batter mix. So you have to measure out a cup of the mix and add
the rest later. You also have to divide the coconut packaged in
the cupcake mix and add some to the batter and some to the frosting.
Both cupcake batters were fairly thick when mixed together. The
batter for the scratch chocolate cupcakes, by comparison, was light
and fluffy -- almost like a mousse. The batter for the scratch coconut
cake had a strong aroma from the flavorings, while the cupcake batter
had almost no smell at all.
The bottom line: For the price, it hardly seems worth it to buy
these cupcake mixes. If you want the true Barefoot Contessa flavor
and texture, make them from scratch from the recipes in her books.
If you're that pressed for time, you can buy a dozen cupcakes for
the price of a mix and the extra ingredients.
|